Nestled in the serene countryside of Jinan, Jeollabuk-do, Maisan Mountain (Horse Ear Mountain) offers one of Korea’s most mystical hiking experiences. At its heart lies Tapsa Temple (탑사) – a site famed for its enigmatic stone pagodas and tranquil energy. For foreign travelers seeking cultural depth and natural beauty, this destination is a hidden gem. Here’s your detailed guide!
Why Maisan Mountain & Tapsa? ###
Maisan’s name comes from its twin peaks, resembling horse ears. But its real magic lies in Tapsa Temple, where over 120 stone pagodas defy gravity. Built single-handedly by scholar-hermit Lee Gap-yong (이갑용) from 1885 to 1910, these towers rise without mortar or adhesive. Legends claim Lee stacked stones using spiritual energy and meditation. For visitors, it’s a surreal open-air museum blending nature, devotion, and mystery.
Getting There ###
- From Seoul: Take a KTX to Iksan Station (2 hrs). From Iksan, board a bus to Jinan Intercity Bus Terminal (50 min).
- Local Transport: From Jinan Terminal, take Bus #171 to Maisan Mountain entrance (15 min).
- Tip: Naver Maps (English) works best for real-time bus schedules. Taxis from Jinan cost ~₩10,000.
The Hike: Easy & Rewarding ###
- Trail: A well-paved 1.5km path (30–40 mins) from the entrance to Tapsa. Gentle slope, suitable for all fitness levels.
- Scenery: Pass through golden fields (autumn), cherry blossoms (spring), or snow-dusted pines (winter). Look for “Eoreumgol” (Ice Valley) – a cool microclimate even in summer!
- Wildlife: Squirrels, magpies, and rare birds like the Eurasian Jay.
Tapsa Temple: Where Stones Tell Stories ###
- The Pagodas: Ranging from 3m to 9m tall, these stacks seem impossibly balanced. Circle the main cluster quietly – each has a unique shape. Don’t miss the “Three-Story Pagoda”, Lee Gap-yong’s first creation.
- Sacred Caves: Behind the pagodas, tiny caves house Buddhist statues. Lee meditated here while building the towers.
- Temple Rituals: Light incense (available for ₩1,000) or join monks’ chanting at sunrise (6 AM).
Beyond Tapsa: More Treasures ###
- Eunsusa Temple (은수사): A 20-min uphill walk from Tapsa. Famous for its “wish-granting” tree and emerald-green pond.
- Maisan Summit: For avid hikers, trek to the peaks (3–4 hrs round-trip). Sweeping views of Jinan’s quilt-like farmland!
- Jinan Red Ginseng Center: Sample Korea’s famed hongsam (red ginseng) near the mountain base.
Practical Tips ###
- Best Time: April–May (azaleas in bloom) or October (fiery autumn foliage). Avoid summer weekends (crowded).
- Facilities: Restrooms, cafes, and sundubu (tofu stew) restaurants at the entrance. Minimal English signage – download a translation app.
- What to Bring: Water, sunscreen, and cash (small shops don’t take cards). Wear comfy shoes – paths are rocky.
- Cultural Etiquette: Bow slightly to pagodas (they’re sacred). No touching or climbing on stones!
Final Thoughts ###
Tapsa isn’t just a temple – it’s a testament to human patience meeting nature’s artistry. As you walk among Lee Gap-yong’s stone dreams, you’ll feel Maisan’s quiet power: ancient, grounding, and profoundly Korean. Whether you seek peace or wonder, this walk will linger in your memory long after you leave.
Ready? Pack your curiosity – Maisan awaits. 🗻✨
Key Vocabulary:
- 탑사 (Tapsa): Pagoda Temple
- 마이산 (Maisan): Horse Ear Mountain
- 돌탑 (Doltap): Stone Pagoda
- 산책 (Sanchaek): Leisurely walk