Nestled in the peaceful countryside of Jeollabuk-do, South Korea, Jinan Maisan (Horse Ear Mountain) isn’t your typical hike. Forget endless forested slopes—Maisan greets you with two dramatic, rocky peaks (450m) jutting skyward like giant horse ears. As a foreign traveler, I was captivated by its unique geology, spiritual vibe, and accessibility. Here’s my detailed trail report!
Why Maisan Stands Out
- Geological Wonder: The “horse ears” are volcanic rock spires formed over 80 million years ago—sheer cliffs contrasting sharply with the gentle valley below.
- Sacred Site: At the mountain’s base lies Tapsa Temple, where one monk single-handedly built over 80 stone pagodas over 30 years. These gravity-defying towers feel mystical!
- Accessibility: Perfect for a half-day trip (2–3 hours round-trip) from Jeonju or Daejeon. No extreme fitness needed!
The Hike: Step-by-Step
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Starting Point (Tapsa Temple Entrance):
- Begin at the temple complex (₩3,000 entrance fee). Wander among the pagodas—some wobble if gently pushed!
- Tip: Grab bingsu (shaved ice) or hotteok (sweet pancake) from stalls here for energy.
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Trail to the Peaks:
- East Peak Trail (초입문 코스): Steeper but shorter (30–40 mins). Rocky steps lead through pine forests with rope assists on steeper sections.
- West Peak Trail (탑사 코스): Gentler ascent (40–50 mins), passing hermitages and offering valley views.
- I combined both: Up East Peak for challenge, down West Peak for scenery. Trails are well-marked with English signs.
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Summit Views:
- East Peak (Gunungbong): Panoramic views of Jinan’s patchwork farms. Spot the “Rock of Wisdom”—a boulder balancing precariously!
- West Peak (Yongwibong): Face-to-face with the iconic “ears.” At sunset, the rocks glow golden—pure magic.
- Caution: Summits have narrow ridges. Hold railings and avoid windy/rainy days.
Insider Tips for Foreign Travelers
- Getting There:
- From Jeonju: Take Bus #790 (1hr 20mins, ₩5,000). Last return bus ~6 PM.
- From Seoul: KTX to Iksan Station → Local bus to Jinan → Taxi to Maisan (15 mins).
- Best Time: Spring (April–May) for cherry blossoms or Autumn (October) for fiery foliage. Summer can be humid; winter icy (crampons recommended).
- Pack: Water, sunscreen, grippy shoes (rocks get slippery!), and cash (temple entry/stalls). Restrooms at base only.
- Nearby Eats: Try Jinan-gukbap (herb-rich pork soup) at town restaurants post-hike!
My Personal Highlight
Sitting atop East Peak as mist curled around the pagodas below, I felt miles from modern Korea. Watching elderly Korean hikers cheerfully tackle the trail (many in full hiking gear!) was inspiring. The blend of natural drama and human devotion at Tapsa made Maisan feel profoundly spiritual—not just a physical climb.
Final Thoughts
Maisan is a hidden gem offering big rewards for moderate effort. It’s ideal for culture-loving hikers short on time. Whether you’re mesmerized by geology, pagodas, or countryside vistas, this mountain delivers a uniquely Korean adventure. Don’t skip it if you’re in Jeollabuk-do!
Have you hiked Maisan? Share your questions or stories below! 🌄