10:00 AM: First Steps into Sensory Overload
Stepping into Gwangjang Market felt like diving into a living, breathing organism. The air hummed with sizzling griddles, bubbling broths, and the lively chatter of vendors hawking treasures under vaulted ceilings. Established in 1905, this is Seoul’s oldest market—a labyrinth where history and hunger collide. My mission? To eat my way through time. Pro tip: Come early! Crowds swell by noon, but at this hour, I could weave freely past stacks of silk hanbok fabrics and shimmering ribbons, my stomach already rumbling in anticipation.
11:00 AM: Bindaetteok Bliss at Cho Yonsoon’s Stall
I followed my nose to Stall #26, famed for bindaetteok (mung bean pancakes). Watching the ajumma (auntie) pour batter onto a searing hotplate, I felt the crisp edges form before my eyes. One bite—crunch!—revealed a savory, earthy interior studded with kimchi and bean sprouts. Paired with icy makgeolli (rice wine), the tangy creaminess cut through the pancake’s richness. Cost: ₩5,000 per pancake. Cash preferred!
12:30 PM: Noodle Nirvana at Mayak Gimbap Alley
Lunch called at “Mayak Gimbap Row.” At Yoon Sookja Halmeoni’s Stall, I ordered mayak gimbap (“drug gimbap”—addictively good!). Bite-sized rice rolls, packed with carrots and spinach, were dunked in mustard-yellow sauce—sweet, sharp, and utterly moreish (₩3,000). Next door, steaming bowls of kalguksu (hand-cut noodles) swam in anchovy broth with plump dumplings. Slurping beside locals on plastic stools, I understood why this alley is legendary.
2:00 PM: Carnivorous Adventures & Market Treasures
Post-noodles, I wandered past stalls glistening with sannakji (live octopus) and mountains of dried fish. At a bustling grill station, I savored tteokgalbi (minced beef patties) caramelized in soy-honey glaze (₩8,000). Nearby, elderly artisans hand-pounded injeolmi (rice cakes)—their rhythmic thuds a timeless soundtrack. Don’t miss the vintage photo spots near Fabric Alley!
3:30 PM: Sweet Finale with Hotteok & Nostalgia
As afternoon light slanted through the rafters, I queued at a honey hotteok (sweet pancake) cart. The vendor stuffed dough with cinnamon-brown sugar, crushed nuts, and sesame seeds, then flattened it on the grill. Crispy outside, molten inside—it was a hug in food form (₩1,500). Sipping sikhye (sweet rice punch) from a paper cup, I watched families sharing laughs over shared plates.
5:00 PM: Reflections & Practical Magic
Exiting with a full heart (and fuller stomach), I replayed the day: the sizzle of pancakes, the warmth of ajummas’ smiles, the symphony of flavors spanning generations. Gwangjang isn’t just a market—it’s Seoul’s soul served on a paper plate.
For Fellow Food Explorers:
- 📍 Location: Jongno 4-ga Station (Line 1), Exit 7.
- ⏰ Hours: 8:30 AM–6 PM (food stalls); closed Sundays.
- 💡 Tips: Bring cash (many stalls don’t take cards), wear comfy shoes, and point & smile if language barriers arise!
- 🌶️ Spice Level: Most vendors adjust heat—just say “mae-wo-yo” (less spicy) or “mae-ju-se-yo” (very spicy).
Gwangjang’s magic? It feeds both body and heritage—one delicious bite at a time. ✨