Seoul, a city pulsating with neon and noise, holds a secret escape high above the urban sprawl. Nestled atop an old landfill transformed into an ecological haven, Haneul Park (Sky Park) in Sangam-dong becomes the stage for one of Korea’s most ethereal seasonal spectacles: the Autumn Silver Grass (Eulalia/Miscanthus) Festival. Visiting during this time isn’t just a walk in the park; it’s an immersion into a landscape painted in whispers and silver light, a must-experience for any visitor in autumn.
As you ascend the park’s winding wooden staircase or glide up on the eco-friendly shuttle, the city’s clamor gently fades. Reaching the plateau, a breathtaking vista unfolds. Imagine vast, rolling hills, not covered in trees, but blanketed by an endless sea of silver grass (억새, eokssae). In late October to early November, these tall, slender reeds undergo a magical transformation. Their feathery plumes, initially tinged with soft purple or pink, mature into a shimmering, luminous silver. They catch the sunlight during the day, creating ripples of light like waves on a metallic ocean. When the breeze sighs through them – a constant, gentle companion at this elevation – the entire field sways and rustles, a soothing, natural symphony replacing the urban soundtrack.
The festival itself enhances this natural beauty without overwhelming it. Meandering gravel pathways are carved through the towering grass, inviting you to wander and lose yourself. At every turn, the city skyline – iconic landmarks like N Seoul Tower and the futuristic Dongdaemun Design Plaza visible in the distance – provides a striking, modern counterpoint to the wild, natural beauty surrounding you. Designated photo zones become popular spots, especially as the light changes. But the true magic hour is sunset. As the sun dips towards the horizon, it ignites the silver plumes in hues of molten gold, fiery orange, and deep rose, setting the entire park ablaze with warm, transient color. This daily spectacle draws crowds, yet the park’s vastness absorbs them, allowing moments of quiet contemplation.
As dusk deepens, another enchantment begins. Thousands of twinkling LED lights, often strung along pathways or illuminating art installations nestled within the grass, begin to glow. The silver reeds, now shadowy silhouettes, are subtly highlighted, creating an atmosphere of serene mystery. The distant city lights shimmer below, mirroring the stars beginning to appear above, making you feel suspended between two heavens. Small food stalls offer warm, comforting Korean street food – steaming cups of sikhye (sweet rice punch), hotteok (sweet filled pancakes), or grilled sausages – providing warmth and a taste of local flavors amidst the cool autumn air. You might stumble upon impromptu cultural performances – perhaps traditional music or dance – adding a layer of human artistry to the natural canvas.
The air is crisp and clean, carrying the subtle, dry, earthy scent of autumn grasses. It’s noticeably cooler than the city below, so layering up is essential. The predominant sounds are the wind whispering secrets through the reeds, the distant hum of the city, the crunch of gravel underfoot, and the soft murmurs of fellow visitors sharing the awe. There’s a profound sense of peace and tranquility, a feeling of being wonderfully isolated despite the metropolis sprawling at your feet.
Experiencing Haneul Park during the Silver Grass Festival is more than just sightseeing; it’s a sensory poem dedicated to the Korean autumn. It showcases the remarkable transformation of an urban space into a place of breathtaking natural beauty and quiet reflection. It’s a powerful reminder of nature’s cycles, resilience, and its ability to inspire wonder even on the doorstep of a megacity. Standing amidst that vast, whispering silver sea, bathed in the golden light of sunset or the soft glow of evening lights, with the cool autumn wind on your face and the panoramic view of Seoul unfolding below, you capture the very essence of Korean autumn – a season of profound beauty, gentle melancholy, and unforgettable, shimmering moments. Don’t just visit Seoul in autumn; ascend to Haneul Park and let its silver sea carry you away.